I think that most divers are like me, in that we have a love/hate relationship with our equipment. Some stuff we love, and some stuff is a disappointment. Okay, some of it just pisses us off because it just does not work, for us, for whatever reason? We are all searching for our own Goldilocks Gear, for the way we dive. So, these are some of the items in my dive locker that I am truly excited about, and work Just Right for me!!
If the water is cold, then I will use neoprene, or dry gloves appropriate to the degree of coldness. Manual dexterity is important, and cold hands are not conducive to getting the job done.
However, I do a lot of warm water diving these days and I am a glove guy, regardless of how cold the water is. That is unless the wearing of gloves is prohibited by the Law. IMHO gloves are necessary protection for wreck divers and hunters, but some reef watchers do not use, or need gloves,
Regular old neoprene gloves, for warm water diving, do not protect me very well, they don't hold up very well, and they are expensive. For me, that is not such a good combination? What usually happens to me, is that the neoprene wears through at the fingertips, and that means you have hand protection, except where you need it. Nice. For this reason, they do not last long, and they don't offer much protection against cuts or punctures.
The latest thing in dive glove tech is gloves made from dyneema. Dyneema is a fabric similar to kevlar, but at least for diving, it is better. It is light weight, puncture resistant, and cut resistant. Dyneema has several uses for spearos, but dyneema gloves rock!! The work extremely well for wreck divers, for all the reasons they work for spearos. They protect your hands, but they are very tactile.
There are a bunch of manufacturers, like Hammerhead, Hatch, and Omer, amongst others. I am not sure which brand is "best", but trust me, dyneema gloves will protect your hands like nothing else out there, and they last!!
Reef Scuba Long Island Dive Reel
I have had at least one of the Reef Scuba Long Island Dive Reels for about 12 years now. I love the reel, and like the company that makes them. The reels themselves are sturdy, simple, metal, and they have ordering options. Reef Scuba has parts for sale, as well as providing maintenance and overhauls. They offer a few different size reels, and for each reel a variety of line options.
I have two of the 5" Long Island Dive Reels with Tensioning, each with 400' of their #48 line. Actually, I pull 50'-75' of line off the 400' they give me, just to give me a little more room on the spool. I like metal, and I like simple. Plastic parts don't seem to do well with me, and I have the same problem with lots of moving parts. If I need a reel, I don't want to rely on skinny little line inside a wreck, so I totally love their #48 line and I don't know of anyone else who offers it?
The whole setup is sturdy, and reliable. I have even taken the entire reel apart underwater, to fix a line problem, when I have allowed someone else to mess it up. The 5" reels are big, but that is not necessarily bad. I don't care for little fidgety reels. If I want small, I use a spool.
After 12 years, one of my reels had a corrosion problem with the aluminum, which prevented one of the screws from seating right, so I sent it back to them. It still had the original #48 line on it, but probably only about 200' of it after 12 years. For $65 dollars they essentially sent me a new reel, and they even put new line on it for me. From the time I mailed it, until I got it back, was only about 5 days.
Now, of course reels occasionally break during use. However, if you have an issue with your dive reel, I believe that 9 out of ten times it is operator error. No reel can operate itself, but when it comes to reels I think sturdy, metal, and simpler is better, at least for me.
Regulators – Apeks Tek3 Regulator Set
Over the years I have tried probably every brand of regulator out there. Seriously, all of the major manufacturers make a descent regulator, however if there is one single piece of equipment we all obsess over as divers, it is our regulators. It is our life support, and the most important purchase most divers make. Regulator failure is a serious issue that will cancel or turn a dive in a heartbeat, so we all want the best regulators we can get our hands on.
IMHO, the best regulators I have ever used are the ones I am currently using, the Apeks Tek3 first stages with the XTX 50 second stages. I love these regulators for a bunch of reasons. They are rugged, and durable, both of which are important to me because I am kind of hard on gear.
At the same time, the Tek3 first stages are specifically designed for use with double cylinders, with a right hand regulator and a left hand regulator. You can use them horizontal or vertical, depending on how you want to run your hoses. Regardless, they are very low profile. Most important, they are extremely reliable, which actually to me means low maintenance.
The XTX 50 second stages are reliable, adjustable, and breathe like I want them to breathe, without mre having to do much of anything. Aside from that, the new 2013 ones have a cool little deal with the purge button that gives a half purge, or Purge Light, when you want it. I can't believe someone did not come up with this sooner, but I like it.
I guess the real test is how well any regulator works in deep water, and I am very happy with the Tek3/XTX50 combination. Apeks is a solid company, they are dedicated to diving, and they make their own products in the UK.
BCD Wing – Hollis LX Wing C45
The problem with wing BCD’s is that most of them are too big and floppy. The Horseshoe design is terrible, because gas can only move around when you are in a head up position. I love the Hollis LX C45, because it is different. It is built for the way I dive. They make a few sizes, but the C45 provides me 45# of lift, which is plenty. It has a doughnut design, so gas moves around easily without surging and messing with my trim It has an internal bungee that keeps the wing not just compact, but close to my body, instead of flapping around like I was a bird.
I have beat the crap out of this Wing, which I inadvertently do, without a problem. It works, because it is very well made. The Hollis people have just come out with a new double bladder version of the one I am diving. The second bladder inflator hose is more on the side, instead of mirror positioned from the Primary. Smart.
I love this wing.
The things I love about the Hollis Bat Fins are so simple, I can't believe it took so long for a manufacturer to figure it out!! There are all sorts of gimmicky fin designs out there, but the split, vented, hinged, plasticy, whatever fins just do not work for me, and the way I want to dive. I like utility, efficiency, and comfort for the long dive.
The Bat Fin is just like the old heavy duty rubber fins, but totally refined. The rubber material gives the fin itself great snap, but it also makes for a very, very comfortable foot pocket. The fin spring strap is very comfortable as well, and it is the perfect design for wrecks. They have a very streamlined, and featureless side strap connection, so they are far less likely to get entangled in mono or wires, which is good. The heel tabs make the fins fast and easy to remove on the ladder in crappy weather.
I get great kick with these fins even when my hydrodynamics are somewhat challenged with Tek stuff. Aside from all that, these fins are rugged, but relatively light. Did I mention they were really comfortable? I love these fins... in black.
I have pretty much dived, or seen someone else dive, every dive computer that has come down the pike since my old SOS Meter. Most of them were okay, at least for the technology of the day, but some of them just did not work, which sucked. They all made me think we had a long way to go, at least until I got my hands on the Predator. It did what I wanted it to do!!
The Predator was intuitive and easy to use, right out of the box. If there is a manual, I never saw it, but I was still able to make it work for me, easily. The display was brilliant, and I mean that both ways. I can glance at the screen and see the data, inside the wreck or outside, without having to light it up with my flashlight. Even a blind guy could see these numbers!
I am still in love with my 10 year old Shearwater Predator. I have had it deeper than 500 feet, and I still dive it. But Shearwater doesn't even make it anymore. It changed the way I dive.
Enough history. The god’s honest truth is that the updated version of the Predator is the Petrel, which is even better!! The Petrel is the only dive computer you and I will ever need.
The whole reason I would want to have a dive computer in the first place is to provide me with the data I need to manage my dive. It is my job to interpret the information, so I want the information I want, right? With the Petrel, I can get all fidgety with the Gradient Factors, or I can get info on the status of the battery, or I can change gas on the fly, or whatever? It makes all the data I could want, available.It runs off of AA alkaline batteries which I can change myself. The screen has big, well lit numbers, shows you lots of information, on a home screen that you can even customize!! It runs on Bühlmann GF with the option for adding VMP-B, and has Tech, Rec, Gauge, and CCR modes. It even has a compass.
I have used the Petrel for Air, Nitrox, Trimix, and CCR. You even have the option for a Fischer connection. Aside from all the features, the best thing about the Petrel is that it is easy to use, and incredibly intuitive. Now, I know not every diver needs a computer that will take them to 500 feet, and for run of the mill recreational dives, divers can get by with far, far less. But if you are not sure how technical or advanced you want to get with your diving, you will never outgrow this computer.
It is Bluetooth integrated, so you can connect it to your desktop, where you can download dives, or upload firmware updates. The Dive Log is awesome. Not only is the absolutely the best dive computer ever, but the company is first class in every way. IMHO, the Petrel is the best dive computer ever made, period. At the same time, it is way cheaper than computers that do less and cost a lot more.
This computer is so far ahead of everyone else, it is not even funny.
The Sola Tech 600 Dive Light
I remember a day when my old Darrell Allan light was the wreck diving standard. It was not bright at all, but you could also use it as a hammer. It was a big can thatused like 10 alkyline batteries, and sometimes the bulb would fall out of the socket in the middle of a dive. It was the Prince of Darkness. That was then, and this is now!!!!!
Modern lights are specifically designed for different uses. I do not use the same light for everything, and I often carry more than one, but my Primary Light is going to have to be the best all around light for the diving I am doing. It has to be rugged, have decent burn time, and it needs to be bright.
My favorite Primary light is the new Sola Tech 600 by Light and Motion. It is bright, but with lots of brightness options, and plenty of burn time, depending on the brightness selections. It has a very cool hand mount harness that means I can use both my hands while using my light, so.I can easily use a reel with this handle, amongst other things. It also means I point the light intuitively with my hand. The rechargable light comes with a smart charger, and an operating manual, which takes like 2 minutes to read. It is very intuitive, capable, reliable, and rugged. It is lots of light, in a surprisingly compact package.
There are several Sola models, but for me, the Tech 600 is the best balance of Burn Time vs.Brightness..I predict this is a design that will be copied by a lot of other manufacturers. I love the Sola.
I wonder where my old Darrell Allan light is these days???
I love to use strobe lights on wrecks!!! They are a fantastic navigation tool, and the brighter they are the better they do what it is I want them to do. I use them to mark the anchor line or stage bottles, as well as for navigation inside or outside the wreck. I regularly use more than one on some dives. Deep inside a dark wreck, nothing gives me that warm and fuzzy feeling on the way out, like seeing the strobe in the distance.
Doc Edgerton invented the strobe light in 1931, but the strobe lights themselves for use underwater have been kind of disappointing until recent history. If you watch my Andrea Doria video from 1991, you will notice that the strobe light I drop at the beginning of the dive to mark my entrance/exit from the stairwell, is not working by the time I am ready to leave. At the other end of the stairwell, I use a flashlight instead of a strobe, simply because I did not own another strobe that was working that day. Reliability is important if you are using it for navigation, and reliability used to be a tall order.
The latest strobe lights from Tektite are the best I have ever used. They are rugged, bright, and reliable. They use either 2 or 3 alkaline C cell batteries, depending on whether you are using the Strobe 200 or the Strobe 300. The two models are equally bright, but the difference between the 2 and 3 cell version is overall size, and burn time.